The Tale of Two Guns

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Mountain Lion enclosure at the Two Guns Zoo

Tracing his finger along Route 66 on a Whiting Bros. roadmap he read the names aloud. Holbrook. Winslow. Meteor City, at least that one had potential. Two Guns! His 10 year old mind raced at the possibilities of what they would find there. Two Guns, the name alone evokes images of the wild west, of 2 men squaring off at noon for a gunfight, of cowboys and Indians. “Dad, can we stop at Two Guns? Can We? Can We? Huh? Huh?”

The stop at Meteor Crater Observatory was a gyp. Twenty Five cents to look through a telescope at the side of a crater that was 6 miles away, it looked like the side of any other hill. At least he got a cap gun and holster out of the deal and his younger brother got an Indian headdress and tomahawk. As Dad’s Buick headed west the anticipation for Two Guns began to build.

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Route 66 over Diablo Canyon at Two Guns.

The location of Two Guns was known as an easy place to cross Diablo Canyon when wagons were the main method of transportation across the Northern Arizona Desert. When the National Old Trails Highway was created in 1914, it went right through the Two Guns property. It was called “Canyon Lodge” then but at about the same time that the Old Trails Highway was renamed to Route 66 Canyon Lodge became Two Guns.

With the increase in auto traffic on Route 66 Two Guns became the quintessential tourist trap. It had rock walled structures built by Hopi laborers, a zoo with mountain lions and reptiles, campground, curio shop, legends of Indian caves, and a wild west theme. How could it lose? It also had the modern amenities of a restaurant, lodging facilities, and gas station.

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The animal pens at Two Guns’ zoo.

As Two Guns came into view his hopes grew with anticipation. They pulled into the parking lot in front of the motel and Dad got out, followed closely by his oldest son with 6 shooter firmly holstered. The man at the desk told him about all the things a 10 year old could do in Two Guns, each thing more exciting than the one before. Dad was reluctant to give up the few remaining hours of sunlight but the pleading to stay there was too much.

“What about Canyon Diablo to the north?” dad asked. “Nothing left there since the trading post burned down 20 or 30 years ago,” replied the man behind the desk. “This is about all you will find between here and Flagstaff,” he added.

Dad took the room key from the man behind the desk and began unloading the luggage from the car as older and younger brother rushed off to explore Two Guns. With six shooter and tomahawk in hand, their imaginations stretched beyond the rock walls and across the desert landscape.

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Doorways

With the advent of the Interstate, Two Guns’ days were numbered. Though it got its own exit when I-40 was built the decline could not be stopped. The zoo was closed prior to 1950 but reopened with reptiles a few years later. Most of the modern buildings were destroyed in an arson fire in 1970 putting the final nail in the coffin. Today there are number of rock structures still standing but all have lost their roofs and many of the walls have succumbed to the influence of gravity.

A number of attempts have been made to revive Two Guns but none have met with any success. For now the site sits abandoned, an empty shell of what it once was.

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Two Guns outhouses

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Interstate 40 traffic passes by the demolished gas pumps at Two Guns, Arizona

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The Rare Bear

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Stewart Dawson pilots the highly modified Grumman Bearcat “Rare Bear” around the pylons during the 2011 Reno Pylon Racing Seminar.
Canon EOS 40D, Canon EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS USM, 1/250 @ f14

On August 21, 1989, Rare Bear became the fastest propeller driven aircraft of all time by challenging and shattering the 3km World Speed Record with a speed of 528.33 mph. The airplane had come a long way since it was first found in 1969 by Lyle Shelton severely damaged and sitting next to a runway in Indiana. Owner\pilot Lyle raced the aircraft for many years, and a number of Unlimited Championships, before turning over the reins to John Penney. In 2006 Rod Lewis purchased the iconic aircraft from Lyle Shelton and in 2007 once again took the National Championship. Plans are underway to break its own 3km record at an undisclosed location in the summer of 2012.

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Arrows at Twin Arrows Restored

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The iconic arrows at Twin Arrows Trading Post were refurbished in 2009.

In the spring of 2007, while on a trip to the Grand Canyon, we had made a side journey to a few of the Route 66 sites that lie east of Flagstaff. One of those stops was at the remains of the Twin Arrows trading post east of Winona. We found a boarded up trading post, gas station, and diner. There was paint peeling from the side of the diner, gas being advertised for $1.39, and the two fading arrows were missing their points and fletchings.

In April of 2012 we visited again and we noticed two noteworthy changes. The most obvious was the restoration of the arrows that had occurred in 2009. They looked nearly new with their red arrow tips, fletchings, and bright yellow shaft shining brightly in the sun. The second change that we noticed was that the sign advertising gasoline for $1.39 a gallon was no longer there. There may have been a bit more paint missing from the Diner than last time but other than that it didn’t look like much else had changed over the 5 years.
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The Twin Arrows as they were in the spring of 2007.

The Twin Arrows Trading Post was originally opened in the late 40′s and was at that time called the Padre Canyon Trading Post. In the 1950′s the pair of 20 foot arrows were erected and, playing off of the name of Two Guns which was further east on Route 66, the name was changed to Twin Arrows. After going through a number of owners in the 1990′s the post was closed in 1998. The site is now owned by the State of Arizona and recently an agreement has been struck with the Hopi Tribe to reinvigorate the site.

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Twin Arrows Trading Post

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Peeling paint on the Twin Arrows Cafe

Getting to Twin Arrows is as easy as getting off  Interstate 40 at exit 219. However, there is a barrier between the roadway and the site with no room to stop and park your vehicle. To get up close to the trading post and cafe requires parking your vehicle along the access road east of the site and then hoofing it back.

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Corsair

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Chance Vought F4U-4 Corsair being flown by Doug Matthews during the 2010 Reno Pylon Racing Seminar.
Canon EOS 40D, Canon EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6L IS USM, 1/250 @ f14

The gull winged World War II fighter was originally designed as a carrier aircraft for the U.S. Navy but was relegated to land based operations due to a high number of carrier landing accidents during the first years of the war. The Marine Corps used the F4U Corsair extensively, operating the rugged fighter from jungle airstrips in the South Pacific. Later versions of the Corsair were used in the Korean War.

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The Bridge at Padre Canyon

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Padre Canyon Bridge in Arizona

It stands 350 yards and nearly 100 years away from its modern day counterpart. Standing on the gravel roadbed of the Padre Canyon bridge you can hear the sound of the cars and trucks moving along Interstate 40, or is it the fading echo of a Model T from years ago? It’s concrete side railing is completely gone in some places, replaced by a steel rail, and most of the rail posts are either damaged or completely gone. Travelers on the Interstate are oblivious to its existance as it is around a bend in Padre Canyon, out of the motorists view.

It was once part of the National Old Trails Highway, later part of Route 66, and it’s construction allowed vehicles to pass over Padre Canyon whose steep canyon walls were a major transportation obstacle on the relatively flat Arizona high desert since the days of the Winona-Flagstaff road. The bridge, classified as a Luten Bridge, was enginereed by Daniel B. Luten and built by the Topeka Bridge and Iron Co. in 1914 for a total cost of $7,900. On September 30, 1988 it was added to the National Register of Historic Places.

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In 1937 a new bridge was built across Padre Canyon that was wider than the 1914 bridge, could handle the increased traffic of Route 66, and eliminate the dangerous curves found on the approach to the old bridge. The 1937 bridge was replaced when the Interstate was built and its foundation footings can be seen below the current bridge.

Getting to the Canyon Bridge requires getting off of the Interstate, following a stretch of Route 66 roadbed, and traveling over some sections of rough terrain. Traveling east from Winona the roadbed starts in good condition but degrades after a few miles with potholes and missing asphalt. Closer to the bridge there are sections where the Route 66 roadbed lies underneath the Interstate and an offroad trail has been cut. With a high clearance vehicle it is possible to drive down to the bridge itself and the tire tracks in the gravel indicate that there are souls brave enough to drive across.

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Magic’s Time

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A Stead sunset reflects off of the fuselage of the P-51 Mustang “Merlin’s Magic.”
Canon EOS 40D, Canon EF 24-105mm f4L IS USM, 1/10 @ f11

For more than two decades the Eberhardt family has campaigned Merlin’s Magic in the annual Reno National Championship Air Races. Always a strong Silver Class contender the super stocker had its fastest quallifying time in 2002 with a speed of 434.744 MPH, good enough for 4th overall, and that same year placed 5th in the Unlimited Gold. Earlier this year the Eberhardt’s announced that they would be retiring from air racing. Thank you Race 22 and crew for all the memories.

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Essex Airfield; Forgotten in the Desert


Essex Airfield’s eastern most runway

On the map it is listed simply as a landing strip, from the air 2 runways with 6 hardstands at each end and a taxiway in between can be cleary seen, from the ground it is hard to see any of it unless you are standing right on top of it, and it is not visible at all from nearby Goffs Road or Interstate 40. The western most runway is in the process of being reclaimed by the desert with creosote bushes growing up through the hard packed sand that formed the runways base. The eastern most runway is much more open with plenty of room to land a small airplane.

In 1942 the Department of the Interior turned over 12 million acres of the Mojave Desert in California and Arizona to the Army to be used as a training area for Gen. George S. Patton’s troops in preperation for war in North Africa. Camp Essex was established in 1942 & subsequently occupied by the 93rd Infantry Division among others. The only permanent structures were the 12 concrete hardstands and a 500,000 gallon water reservoir. The 27,000 men based there where housed in a tent city. The runways themselves where 5000 feet long and 112 feet wide covered with steel matting. The concrete hardstands were large enough for a heavy bomber of the day such as a B-17 or B-24.


Essex Airfield as seen from an altitide of 1.5 miles above the airfield. Goffs Rd. (formerly National Trails Highway & Route 66) and the BNSF railroad cut across the lower right corner

The location of Camp Essex makes a lot of sense for the day. It was in a location that approximated the harsh environment and working conditions of the North African desert which helped acclimate the troops for their eventual destination. Also, from a logistical perspective, it was located alongside U.S. Route 66 and a main Santa Fe railroad line. Camp Essex was allocated 30,535 acres, which was a small part of the overall 12 million acres that made up the Desert Training Center, and by 1944 the land that the camp occupied was declared surplus and returned to the Department of Interior.

Exploring the runways and the surrounding desert roads today there is little sign of the Army that was once there except for the occasional rusting oil can or other small debris. Locals tell of finding unexploded ordinance in the desert area once occuppied by the camp. Creosote now grows up through cracks in the concrete hardstands and most of the gridwork of roads that made up the base have been reclaimed by the desert over the last 70 years. But, if you listen closely to the wind, maybe you can hear the sounds of troops marching in formation drills, rifles being fired, or an A-20 Havoc taking off from the runway.


One of the 12 hardstands surrounding Essex Airfields parallel runways.


Concrete hardstand slowly succumbing to the desert forces. Interstate 40 is barely visible in the distance.

If you are inclined to explore Camp Essex use common sense. The area is remote and not frequently traveled. Carry water, a shovel, and even a few 2x4s to put under your tires if you get stuck in the soft sand. A vehicle with high wheel clearance is advised as many of the established roads cross through dry stream beds and are not as smooth and straight as the aerial image would lead you to believe. Even though Interstate 40 is visible in the distance it could be a long time before help arrives so being able to help yourself is crucial.

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Tehachapi Loop

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An eastbound BNSF freight train passes over itself at the Tehachapi Loop between Bakersfield and Mojave, California.
Canon 40D, Canon EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM, 1/60 @ f5.6

The Tehachapi Loop is a .73 miles (1.17 km) long ‘spiral’, or helix, on the railroad main line. A train more than 4,000 feet (1.2 km) long (about 85 boxcars) will pass over itself going around the loop. In 1998 it was named a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.

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A freight train passes over itself at the Tehachapi Loop between Bakersfield and Mojave, California.
Canon 40D, Canon EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM, 1/60 @ f5.6

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Vacancy

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Red tail lights stream past the Route 66 Motel in Barstow, California
Canon EOS 20D, Sigma 28-70mm 2.8, 8 Seconds @ f13

The neon glow still radiates it’s beckoning call to the desert weary road traveler with the promise of a comfortable bed, air conditioned room, and maybe even cable TV. Interstates have taken the traffic away and many of the neon lights have dimmed along Main Street but the memories remain of families pulling up in their station wagon after a long days drive through the desert, the pent up energy of children splashing and playing in the swimming pool, or just a safe haven for the night before continuing on down the road.

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Climbing the Grade

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Eastbound BNSF Locomotive 7405 climbs the Tehachipi Grade west of the Tehachapi loop
Canon 40D, Canon EF24-105mm f/4L IS USM, 1/160 @ f11

A BNSF freight train, led by GE built ES44DC Locomotive 7405, climbs the grade eastbound approaching the Tehachapi Loop. The ES44DC is an Evolution Series locomotive built by General Electric with 4400 horsepower and DC traction motors.

The Tehachapi Loop is a .73 miles (1.17 km) long ‘spiral’, or helix, on the railroad main line. A train more than 4,000 feet (1.2 km) long (about 85 boxcars) will pass over itself going around the loop. In 1998 it was named a National Historic Civil Engineering Landmark.

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